Bush vs Cordon Tomatoes (Determinate vs Indeterminate)
Choosing between bush and cordon tomatoes determines how much space, support and routine care your crop needs. Bush types are compact and straightforward; cordons are taller, longer-season plants. Match the type to your greenhouse, patio or allotment plot, then grow it in the way that suits its natural habit.
Start by identifying the type on the seed packet or plant label. Determinate tomatoes are usually called bush tomatoes: they form a compact plant, set much of their fruit over a relatively short period and need little pruning. Indeterminate tomatoes are cordons: they continue growing and flowering while conditions remain warm, producing fruit over a longer season. Bush tomatoes suit containers, hanging baskets and sheltered beds where regular support would be inconvenient. Cordons are especially useful in a greenhouse, polytunnel or sunny wall, where their height is an advantage. If labels are unclear, ask at the RHS or a local garden centre before planting.
Sow tomatoes indoors from late February to early April, depending on your space and local climate. In cooler parts of Scotland and northern England, a March sowing is usually more manageable than an early start without good light. Use peat-free seed compost in module trays, cover lightly and keep it warm. Pot seedlings on once they have developed their first true leaves, using peat-free multipurpose compost. Do not plant outside until after the risk of late spring frost has passed and plants have been hardened off gradually. Greenhouse plants can go in earlier when overnight temperatures are reliably gentle and ventilation is available.
Plant bush tomatoes about 45 cm apart in borders, large containers or growbags, allowing air to move around each plant. Use a pot at least 30 cm wide for one bush tomato and water it thoroughly after planting. A short cane or low support can stop heavy trusses resting on soil, but avoid trying to train the plant into one stem. Leave its sideshoots in place, because they carry flowers and fruit. Mulch the surface with garden compost after the soil has warmed to help retain moisture. Check containers daily in warm weather, as their compost dries far faster than a garden bed.
Give each cordon tomato a strong vertical support at planting time. In a greenhouse, tie a soft string to an overhead support and guide the stem upwards; outdoors, use a tall cane pushed firmly into the soil. Set plants about 50 cm apart so leaves can dry after watering. As the cordon grows, tie it loosely at regular intervals, never tightly enough to pinch the stem. Remove sideshoots, the small shoots appearing between a leaf and the main stem, when they are still easy to pinch out. This concentrates growth into the single fruiting stem and keeps the plant easier to manage.
Water both types at the base rather than over the foliage, aiming for even moisture rather than a cycle of drought and soaking. This is particularly important once fruit has formed. Feed according to the instructions on a suitable tomato fertiliser, starting when the first truss has set fruit. In a greenhouse, open doors and vents on warm days and avoid crowding plants. Bush tomatoes benefit from removing only damaged or soil-touching leaves. Cordon tomatoes can have a few lower leaves removed once fruit is swelling, improving air movement without stripping the plant. Inspect weekly for loose ties, thirsty compost and ripe fruit.
Harvest bush tomatoes regularly as fruits reach their expected colour, often from July into September outdoors. Because they ripen in a concentrated flush, preserve a surplus quickly or share it with neighbours. Cordon tomatoes usually continue cropping until autumn cold slows them down, particularly under cover. In late summer, pinch out the growing tip above the highest truss likely to ripen before the weather turns. This prevents the plant wasting energy on very late flowers. Bring nearly ripe fruit indoors before a cold spell if necessary. At season's end, place healthy spent plants on the compost heap and clean reusable supports.
Frequently asked questions
Which tomato type is best for a beginner?
Bush tomatoes are often easiest for beginners because they need less pruning and can be grown in a generous container. Cordon tomatoes are not difficult, but they need weekly tying-in and sideshoot removal. Choose cordons if you have a greenhouse or enjoy frequent picking; choose bushes for a simpler patio or outdoor crop.
Should I remove leaves from bush tomatoes?
Only remove leaves that are damaged, diseased-looking or resting on damp soil. Bush tomatoes need their leafy growth to support a good crop, so heavy pruning can reduce vigour. Improve airflow instead by spacing plants well, watering at soil level and keeping nearby weeds or grass from crowding the stems.
Can cordon tomatoes be grown outside in the UK?
Yes, provided you choose a sunny, sheltered position and support them well. Outdoor cordons often crop later and less heavily than greenhouse plants, especially in cooler or wetter districts. Start with sturdy plants, harden them off after the last spring frost, and protect them with fleece during unexpectedly cool nights.
General guidance for UK home gardens and allotments. Conditions vary by region, soil and season; the RHS or a local garden centre can give site-specific advice. Page updated 18 Sep 2026.