Harman UK

How to Overwinter Herbs

Overwintering herbs means matching each plant to its natural hardiness and your garden's winter conditions. Some herbs remain productive outdoors, others need shelter, and a few are best treated as seasonal. Prepare plants before cold weather, improve drainage and avoid overwatering while growth slows.

Start by sorting herbs into hardy, borderline and tender groups. Mint and chives usually die back in winter and return from their roots in spring. Thyme, sage and oregano are generally hardy in a well-drained position, while rosemary and bay may need extra shelter in colder or exposed areas. Basil is tender and normally finishes as temperatures fall, so harvest what you can rather than expecting it to overwinter outdoors. Check labels if you have named varieties, as hardiness varies. Walk around your garden after rain and frost to identify the wettest, windiest places, then move vulnerable pots before winter rather than after damage appears.

Tidy outdoor herbs in early autumn without cutting them back too severely. Remove dead, diseased or sprawling stems with clean secateurs, but leave enough leafy growth for plants to continue gathering energy. Avoid hard pruning of rosemary and lavender late in the season, because soft new growth is vulnerable to frost. Weed around crowns and improve drainage by adding grit or raising pots on feet where necessary. Apply a light mulch of garden compost or leaf mould around hardy herbs, keeping it away from woody stems and crowns. In heavy soil, consider moving Mediterranean herbs into a raised bed or container with a free-draining peat-free compost mix.

Protect rosemary and bay where winter cold or wind is likely to be severe. Move container-grown plants close to a sheltered wall, into an unheated greenhouse or cold frame, or beneath a porch that still receives light. Wrap the pot rather than enclosing foliage permanently, and use horticultural fleece over the plant during short sharp frosts. Remove fleece during milder weather to allow air movement. In very exposed parts of northern England, Wales, Northern Ireland and Scotland, extra protection is often worthwhile. Ensure rainwater can drain freely, because cold wet roots can be more damaging than a brief frost. Check ties and covers after storms.

Bring suitable potted herbs into a bright, cool indoor place when outdoor conditions are unsuitable. A windowsill can work for small rosemary, bay, parsley or chives, but avoid placing plants directly above a radiator where compost dries suddenly and leaves become stressed. Use pots with drainage holes and a saucer that is emptied after watering. Give plants the brightest available position and turn them weekly for even growth. Do not expect rapid winter harvests: low light slows growth considerably. Pick only a few leaves at a time, leaving enough foliage for recovery. Keep indoor herbs separate from cold glass if overnight temperatures fall sharply.

Water much less in winter, but do not allow evergreen herbs in pots to dry out completely. Test compost 2 to 3 cm below the surface, then water sparingly on a mild morning when it feels dry. Empty standing water from saucers and avoid soaking dormant mint or chive pots. Outdoor plants usually receive enough rainfall, although sheltered containers may need occasional watering. Do not fertilise herbs while they are resting, as this encourages soft growth at the wrong time. Good drainage, light and restrained watering are usually more valuable than extra feeding. Check leaves for yellowing, mould or pest activity and improve ventilation if needed.

Plan for spring recovery as days lengthen. In February or March, remove winter coverings on mild days and gradually increase ventilation in a greenhouse or cold frame. Cut back dead mint and chive foliage to make room for new shoots, then divide congested clumps once growth begins. Refresh the top layer of container compost with peat-free multipurpose compost, or repot plants that are rootbound. Prune rosemary lightly only after frost risk has eased and new growth is visible. Replace basil with fresh sowings in module trays under warmth when appropriate, then plant out only after the last spring frost has generally passed. Keep notes on which herbs coped best in each position.

Frequently asked questions

Will basil survive winter indoors?

Basil often declines in winter because it needs warmth and strong light, even on a windowsill. Treat it as a seasonal herb, harvest leaves before cold weather and sow fresh plants for the next growing season. Avoid expecting outdoor basil to survive frost.

Should I cut mint down for winter?

Yes, once mint has died back, cut old stems close to the compost or soil and remove the debris. Keep the pot or bed slightly moist but not waterlogged. New shoots normally emerge in spring when temperatures and daylight increase.

Can rosemary stay outside all winter?

Often, particularly in a sheltered, free-draining position. In cold, wet or exposed gardens, protect it with fleece during sharp frosts and shelter container plants against a wall, in a cold frame or in an unheated greenhouse. Avoid overwatering and late hard pruning.

General guidance for UK home gardens and allotments. Conditions vary by region, soil and season; the RHS or a local garden centre can give site-specific advice. Page updated 19 Sep 2026.

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