When to Plant Garlic
Garlic is usually planted from individual cloves in autumn, most often October to November, so roots establish before winter and bulbs develop in the following summer. It can also be planted in late winter, although bulbs may be smaller. Local weather, soil drainage and the variety's needs all influence the best timing.
For the main crop, plant garlic from October to November when soil is still workable but summer warmth has passed. Autumn planting suits much of England, Wales and Northern Ireland, while colder Scottish or exposed northern gardens may benefit from choosing a sheltered, well-drained site and avoiding waterlogged periods. Do not plant simply because the month has begun: wait until soil is moist but not sticky and saturated. Garlic needs a period of cool weather to form good bulbs, yet cloves can rot in standing water. Buy sound bulbs intended for planting from a garden centre or reputable supplier. Avoid using soft, damaged or mouldy cloves, and choose varieties suited to British outdoor conditions.
Prepare a sunny bed several weeks before planting. Remove weeds and spread a modest layer of mature garden compost, then level the surface without deep digging. Garlic prefers fertile but free-draining soil; on heavy ground, plant in a raised bed or mound to keep cloves above winter wet. Avoid adding fresh manure immediately before planting, as it can make growth overly soft and complicate bulb formation. If your plot is new, improve it gradually with compost over seasons rather than trying to transform it in one day. Choose a position away from where onions, leeks, garlic or shallots grew recently, following your crop rotation where practical. Mark rows clearly so young shoots are not mistaken for weeds in early spring.
Split bulbs into cloves on planting day, leaving the papery skin around each clove intact. Select the largest, firmest cloves for planting and use any small ones in the kitchen rather than giving them valuable bed space. Make holes with a dibber about 5 to 7 cm deep, set each clove upright with its pointed end facing upwards, then cover and firm lightly. Space cloves about 15 cm apart, with rows around 30 cm apart, adjusting for the variety and your bed layout. Do not push cloves hard into dense soil, as this can damage their base. Label the row with variety and date, then water only if the ground is dry. A light mulch can moderate winter weather but should not smother emerging shoots.
In late winter, plant a spring crop if autumn planting was missed or your ground was too wet. February to March is a useful window in many gardens once soil can be worked without compacting it. Spring-planted garlic often makes smaller bulbs because it has had less time to root and experience winter cold, but it can still provide a worthwhile harvest. Use the same spacing, depth and sunny position as for autumn cloves. Do not delay into warm late spring, when plants have less time to build foliage before bulb formation. In colder regions, waiting for a workable March bed is usually wiser than forcing cloves into frozen or waterlogged soil. Keep any unplanted bulbs cool, dry and airy until planting.
Care for garlic steadily rather than heavily. Weed by hand or with a shallow hoe before weeds become large, taking care not to damage shallow roots. Water during prolonged dry spells in spring and early summer, especially on free-draining soil, but reduce watering as bulbs mature. A surface mulch of compost helps retain moisture and suppresses weeds without burying stems. Do not overfeed; rich soil prepared with compost is usually sufficient. Remove flower stems on hardneck types when they curl, unless you wish to observe them, so plants can direct energy towards bulbs. Watch for yellowing caused by wet ground, drought or ordinary late-season maturity, and improve drainage rather than repeatedly adding feed.
Harvest when lower leaves have yellowed and upper leaves remain partly green, commonly from June to August depending on planting date, variety and weather. Loosen bulbs carefully with a fork rather than pulling hard on stems. Brush off loose soil and dry bulbs in an airy, sheltered place out of direct rain. Once skins are dry, trim roots and store bulbs in a cool, dry, ventilated location. Do not wash bulbs intended for storage. Save only healthy, well-formed bulbs for planting next season, and do not return garlic to the same patch repeatedly. Record planting and harvest dates, because your own garden's pattern is more useful than a generic calendar after the first year.
Frequently asked questions
Can I plant garlic in spring?
Yes. Plant cloves in February or March when the soil is workable and not waterlogged. You may still harvest useful bulbs, although they are often smaller than an autumn-planted crop. Choose a sunny, free-draining site, plant firm cloves upright and give plants steady moisture during spring growth.
How deep should garlic cloves be planted?
Plant each clove about 5 to 7 cm deep, with the pointed end upwards, then firm the soil lightly. Space cloves around 15 cm apart so bulbs have room to develop. In very heavy or wet soil, use a raised bed or mound rather than planting deeper into saturated ground.
Why has my garlic rotted over winter?
Winter rot is commonly linked to waterlogged soil, damaged cloves or poor airflow around stored planting stock. Improve drainage with a raised bed, use only firm cloves and avoid planting during saturated weather. Garlic needs moisture, but it cannot establish well where water sits around the cloves for long periods.
General guidance for UK home gardens and allotments. Conditions vary by region, soil and season; the RHS or a local garden centre can give site-specific advice. Page updated 18 Sep 2026.