When to Plant Spring Vegetables
Spring vegetable planting is guided by soil warmth, light and local weather rather than one fixed date. A sheltered southern garden can begin weeks before an exposed Scottish allotment. By sowing small batches, protecting tender seedlings and watching conditions closely, you can build a steady supply without losing seed to cold, wet ground.
Begin in late winter by preparing a small, sunny area that drains freely. Remove weeds, spread 3 to 5 cm of garden compost and rake the surface until it is level and fine. Do not work soil while it is sticky or frozen; squeezing a handful is a useful test, as it should crumble rather than form a shiny lump. In February and March, check whether the soil feels workable and whether water drains within a few hours after rain. In milder southern gardens, the earliest sowings may start in February under fleece or a cloche. In northern England, Wales, Scotland and exposed sites, March or April is more realistic for many outdoor sowings.
Sow hardy crops first, choosing varieties suited to early production. Broad beans can be sown in modules in a greenhouse or cold frame from February, then planted outside once sturdy. Peas, spinach, radish, spring onion, lettuce, rocket, beetroot and turnips can be sown outside from March when the soil is workable. Make short drills, water their base if dry, sow thinly and cover lightly with soil. Label every row with crop and date. Protect emerging seedlings from birds, slugs and cold winds with horticultural fleece or a cloche, lifting covers on mild days for ventilation. Repeat quick crops such as radish and rocket every two or three weeks rather than sowing one large row.
Raise brassicas early if you want strong plants ready for spring planting. In February or March, sow cabbage, kale, broccoli and cauliflower thinly in module trays filled with peat-free multipurpose compost. Keep them in a bright greenhouse, cold frame or sheltered windowsill, watering only when the compost surface begins to dry. Once seedlings have developed several true leaves, move them gradually into cooler conditions for seven to ten days. Plant out from April in milder areas, or later where nights remain cold, spacing according to the variety. Firm each plant well, water it in and use netting to exclude pigeons. Check leaves regularly so small pest problems do not become overwhelming.
Wait for warmer soil before sowing more sensitive spring vegetables. Carrots and parsnips germinate slowly in cold, wet ground, so March is often suitable only in sheltered southern gardens under a cloche; April is safer in cooler districts. Direct-sow them into stone-free soil because they dislike root disturbance. Early potatoes can be planted from March in mild areas and from April elsewhere, once the soil is no longer cold and saturated. Set seed potatoes into a prepared trench, cover them and earth up shoots if frost threatens. Do not rush French beans, courgettes, sweetcorn or outdoor tomatoes. They need reliably warm conditions and should wait until the danger of frost has passed.
Use the last spring frost as a guide, but judge your own garden too. Frost can settle in low pockets long after a nearby town has warmed, while a city garden with walls may stay milder. Keep fleece ready during April and May for potatoes, peas, brassicas and newly planted salads. Tender crops are normally planted outside from late May or June, after hardening off for at least a week. Start them in module trays or pots indoors from April if you have a bright windowsill or greenhouse. Put plants outside for increasing periods by day, then overnight, before planting. This gradual adjustment prevents a sudden chill, wind or strong sun from checking growth.
Keep the season moving with succession sowing and regular observation. Fill gaps left by harvested radishes with lettuce, beetroot or spring onions. Where early peas finish, add a later crop such as kale or French beans after frost risk has passed. Water new sowings gently but thoroughly, especially beneath fleece and cloches, as protected soil can dry surprisingly fast. Thin crowded seedlings while they are small, leaving space for roots and air circulation. If a sowing fails after cold rain, do not be discouraged: re-rake the drill and sow again when conditions improve. Note dates, weather and results in a notebook, building a planting calendar that fits your own garden.
Frequently asked questions
What can I sow outside first in spring?
Broad beans, peas, radish, spinach, rocket, lettuce, spring onions and some beetroot are good early choices once soil is workable. Start with a small sowing and protect it if cold weather is forecast. In colder or exposed gardens, sowing in modules under cover first gives more reliable results than forcing seed into cold ground.
Should I sow vegetables under fleece?
Fleece can protect early sowings from frost, wind and some pests, and it helps soil warm a little. Lay it loosely so seedlings can grow, secure the edges and check beneath it regularly. Remove or lift it during warm spells to prevent overheating and to make watering, thinning and slug checks easier.
Why have my early carrot seeds not germinated?
Carrot seed often germinates slowly when the soil is cold, wet or crusted after rain. It may also be eaten by slugs before shoots appear. Sow thinly into a fine, stone-free drill, keep the surface evenly moist and cover with a cloche in cool weather. Resow after conditions improve if needed.
General guidance for UK home gardens and allotments. Conditions vary by region, soil and season; the RHS or a local garden centre can give site-specific advice. Page updated 18 Sep 2026.